The final city on our journey was Geneva. I recall we didn’t enjoy Geneva all that much as a city, but in retrospect I’m finding myself quite smitten. We were starting to get road weary and while we had quite a few destinations planned in Geneva, we were having a difficult time make decisions about food. Plus, the hostel was a nightmare.
We arrived in the city and checked into the hostel. Hungry, we headed out and found ourself at a tavern called Caribou. I believe we had Elk stew or something of the sort. After enjoying out lunch we headed out to the Rhone. It was cold and windy. The Jet d’Eau fountain wasn’t running at the time, so we missed one of Geneva’s most iconic sights. However, we did walk out on a jeti to a tiny light house. I played with the birds, as I’m apt to do. We took some windblown, river sprayed photos.
From the jeti we wandered along the Rhone and across a bridge to a statue of Rosseau which was actually hidden behind a giant purple ball. Knowing Geneva’s history with philosopher we couldn’t help but think this was on purpose.
From Rosseau we wandered the streets to one of my favorite parts of the trip, The Patek Philippe Museum. The museum is dedicated to 500 centuries of watch making history in the Swiss region. It was dazzling to see such a vast collection of time pieces and to learn just how long ago people were experimenting with clockwork. It definitely helped inform the steampunk novel Maddie and I have been casually crafting when the moment strikes us. Anyone visiting Geneva who is interested in the slightest about clock and watch making should be sure to put the Patek Philippe Museum on their list.
After the museum we found our way to the Plainpalais Cemetery where we paused at the grave for Jorge Luis Borges.
From the cemetery we did some serious city trekking to find “Les Schtrumpfs.” The official Swiss website writes: “Named after the French word for the ‘Smurfs,’ the Schtrumpfs is a modern architectural landmark located in the funky Les Grottes neighborhood behind the train station. The apartment complex was designed by three architects determined to create the most unconventional building possible. The result is a Gaudi-esque amalgamation of colors and styles that has to be seen to be believed.”
After that excursion I believe we paused at a cafe to figure out what to do next. We were definitely getting a little bit grumpy at that time of the day, but decided to take a bus out to the United Nations. That is what we did and we took a picture of the Broken Chair sculpture facing the UN and meant to represent the devastation created by land mines and, of course, pictures of one another in front of the Palais dse Nations.
We took the bus back downtown. As a worldwide seat for diplomacy, Geneva is perhaps one of the most global cities in the world. This was reflected in the bus ride back as I heard American-English speakers for the first time during our entire trip. I eaves dropped. They didn’t say anything terribly interesting.
At this point in time it was time to eat. We had no plan. We didn’t know what we were craving. We didn’t even know good places in the city to eat. Pretty much every other Swiss city we had visited we had recommendations or at the least did a little bit of research in advance. I had researched sushi restaurants, but we took care of the Swiss sushi requirement way back in Zurich. OH WHAT TO DO.
Spying a place touting “FOIE GRAS” in big letters on a blackboard and knowing Madolan’s love for the delicacy I figured I could do worse than this random place on Boulevard du Pont d Arve called Cafe Universal.
Cafe Universal is now my most favorite restaurant on the globe. The decor is filled with various tchotchkes including a gun toting Scarface, a Super Mario, the head of Ultra Man, and various other characters. In one corner is a phone booth with a television inside. Throughout the establishment is a variety of Victorian candelbara. Scrawled on one wall are the words “KILL BAMBI.” And the bathrooms are peppered with post-it notes left by visitors. No, the decor doesn’t scream “DELICIOUS FOOD,” but that is exactly what you will find when you do eventually get around to ordering.
Maddie had veal in honey with rosemary. I had monkfish with trumpets of death. We shared the foie gras with marmalade and six perfect snails in burgundy and herbs. We left on a gastronomical cloud and floated all the way back to our hostel.
Sadly, the night didn’t end as delightful as the dinner. One of our companions in the shared dorm room was the world record holder for loud snoring. As I spent the night awake I was sure it was a gigantic man, the noise was so loud. But no, such a noise bellowed out from what we would find to be a dainty and friendly young girl in the morning. A sleepless night in Geneva.
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