Switzerland Journal Day Three (Part Two): October 10, 2009
After visiting the grave of James Joyce we headed back down to Zurich proper. One of our objectives was to locate a former residence of Vladimir Lenin. We went to the spot where it was supposed to be on the map, but couldn’t find a marker. There was a knick-knack shop on the street that had two Lenin bookends in the window. We walked around in circles trying to figure out where it could be and surprised that such a landmark wouldn’t have a marker of some sort. At some point I looked up. Up near a second floor window above the knick-knack shop I saw the sign declaring Lenin had live there. Case solved, we moved on.
Our next stop was a beautiful restaurant and bar called Kronenhalle. Maddie had done quite a bit of research in advance of the trip and knew this as an establishment where Joyce, Picasso, Miro, Lenin, and others had all tipped back a few. The bar was beautiful with a dark and rich wooden interior. The bartender on duty that afternoon was also fantastic. Sadly, we failed to write down his name, but he was filled with interesting information. He showed us a brandy bottle from behind the bar that has a ballerina in the center encased in glass. Although the bottle was decades old she still dances. The walls of the establishment featured original paintings, including a couple from both Miro and Picasso.
That night we had our first of what would be many delicious and delightful meals on our trips – it was truly a gastronomic adventure. Our reservations were at a place called Le Dezaley. We chose it because my boss had told us we should look for places that took part in the government wild game program. Through the program Swiss hunters can sell game to restaurants. She had venison and I had wild boar. My meal came with a side of baked Brussels sprouts and I was shocked to learn that I love them when prepared in such a fashion. It was also the first time we had spatzli in Switzerland. Dessert was an eye opening culinary experience. Maddie had grapes marinated in cognac and rum served with cinnamon ice cream. I had lemon sorbet served in vodka. It was eye opening because we are coming from an American perspective where it is rare to find alcoholic desserts – especially of the fashion where you get a glass of straight alcohol with ice cream or sorbet sitting in it – on a menu. Vodka with sorbet has become a regular treat around our homestead.
Maddie has also provided me with our menu items:
Wildschwein-Filetmédaillons *Jagdhorn*
(Médaillons de filet de sanglier au poivre vert / Wild boar fillet with green pepper)
Etwas pikant, dennoch sämig, präsentiert sich unsere grüne Pfeffersauce auf dem
grillierten Wildschwein-Filet. Mit goldig gebratenen Spätzli, Rosenkohl und glasierten
Marroni, „ein richtiger Volltreffer“ wie man unter den Jägern sagt.
Reh-Schnitzel *Diana*
(Escalope de chevreuil sauce aux airelles / Venison escalope on a mountain cranberry sauce)
Das rosa gebratene und delikate Reh-Schnitzel wird mit unserer leicht süsslichen
und mit Preiselbeeren aromatisierten Wildsauce nappiert und von Spätzli,
Rotkraut, Marroni und einem mit Preiselbeeren gefüllten Apfel garniert.
Dessert:
Marinierte Trauben mit Zimtglace
(Ragout de raisin marinée au glace à la canelle / Marinated grapes with cinnamon ice cream)
Seit über einem Jahr in Cognac und Rum eingelegte Trauben werden mit einer Kugel
Zimtglace angerichtet und mit Schlagrahm garniert.
Sorbet Wodka
(Sorbet à la vodka / Sorbet with Vodka)
